Periodically,
you must also checks the knots and verify the tension of the net, in order to
avoid slackening. After the trasnporting the motor, before starting the engine and at regular intervals, is recommended to check your paramotor for possible damages.
The parts frequently at risk are: the propeller, the frame and the guarding net
The frame can be buckled following bad packaging and transporting, in such a case you can easily see that the distance between the prop's edge and the frame differs from point to point when turning it (do this with the engine off and by slowly hand turning the propeller). When the engine is on, because of vibrations, the propeller may "touches" the frame which can result in a permanent damage such as a breakage ; in case of a light damage, you can try to solve the problem by hand pulling the frame to its original shape; for big repairing go to a workshop, or replace the frame with a new one.
T he strings of the guarding net must be checked because in case of breakage they may be caught by the propeller and cause a mess. those frayed must be immediately replaced.
The nylon net can be mended, by hand sewing with thick polyester yarn weaving two or three times in order to reach the original thickness .
The parts to be replaced must be removed by cutting them with a hot tool (a soldering will be all right) in order to melt the tip to avoid fraying .
Periodically,
you must also checks the knots and verify the tension of the net, in order to
avoid slackening.
The tension of the net is set by the tensioning cable that is controlled by adjusting of the knots, as specified in the chapter assembling .
T o avoid fraying :
all the knots of the Kevlar strings
(easy recognizable because of the inner yellow fiber), must be fixed by 1/2
drops of cyanic-acrylic glue on their tips. After few seconds, cut them in
the hardened portion.
|
| Possibile cause | Solution | |
|---|---|---|
| DIFFICULT STARTING : | ||
| Cold starting | mixture too rich or too poor | follow the procedures
go to "engine starting " go to "carburetion " |
air bubbles in the circuit |
charge the circuit before starting the engine , go to "engine starting " |
|
power failure to the spark |
remove it and check |
|
hot starting |
mixture too poor |
go to "carburetion " |
after switching off when the engine is still hot |
vapour look |
wait few minutes or use a colder spark |
different troubles |
low battery or failure un the electric circuit |
go to power failure |
different troubles with float type carburetor |
the gas from the float chamber spread on the sump |
go to "engine starting " |
different troubles with diaphragm carburetor |
after a long resting the carburetor is "dried " |
go to "engine starting " |
| UNEVEN POWER (high revs. power loss ) AND UNSTEADY IDLING | ||
| in case these troubles show simultaneously | ||
| carburetion lean because of gas shortage | carburetion | go to "carburetion " |
| air suction in the fuel circuit | replace pipes, filters and joints | |
| obstructions in the fuel flow |
go to carburetor maintenance |
|
| the carburetor doesn't provide enough fuel |
go to carburetor maintenance |
|
| * must be done when fuel swiftly goes back to the fuel tank when switching off the engine | ||
| carburetion lean due to an excess of air | carburetion | go to "carburetion " |
| fuel suction through the sump or its gaskets |
|
|
| EXHAUSTION GASES | ||
| carbur etion too rich | go to "carburetion " | |
|
||
| POWER FAILURE | ||
spark plug electrodes distance |
0,5 mm (tool supplied ) |
|
distance coil / fly-wheel |
0,3 ; 0,5 mm |
|
short circuit on the switch off circuit |
check thermostat (if any), the switch off button, the coil electric wire to the terminal |
|
| NOISE : | ||
to the speed-reducer |
oil lack | check the oil level |
bearings or gears damaged |
|
|
to the muffler |
mountings or muffler manifold |
fix or replace the mountings |
muffler ineffectual |
replace glass wool |
|
intake |
muffler disconnectet |
|
to the propeller |
damaged by foreign bodies |
fix or replace before taking off again check the engine bolts and nuts |
| UNEXPECTED ENGINE SWITCH OFF or drop of power : | ||
Just after starting |
Air bubbles in fuel circuit |
Accelerate the engine slightly to draw the bubbles through |
Upon acceleraring, the engine wants to die |
Mixture too Lean |
Richen (open) the adjuster |
During idling, the engine dies |
Mixture too lean |
Richen (open) the adjuster |
Engine misses a few beats occassionally |
Air bubbles or fuel-vapour bubbles in line |
Check for leaks, re-route fuel pipe away from vibrating parts |
Difficult to get full power |
Leaks on engine gaskets allowing air to enter |
Replace all engine gaskets |
Sporadic power surges and losses |
Spark Plug too old |
Replace with new spark plug |
| Problems with Chassis | ||
|---|---|---|
| Difficult to insert (or remove) Radial Rods in Plastic fittings | Tip Surface scratched | Polish tips with 600 grit sandpaper |
| VIBRATIONS: | ||
| Anti-Vibration Rubber-Mount Isolators fail prematurely | Propellor Imbalance causing destructive vibration | Re-balance or replace propellor |
|
Spark Plug: Set the Spark Plug gap to between 0.5mm and 0.6mm
Replace the Spark Plug every 12 hours flying Never fly with a damaged propellor! The forces within a spinning propeller are huge and a damaged propeller might disintegrate without warning, with potentially disastrous consequences. The fragments become high-velocity shrapnel and could do serious damage to property or injury to people. An unbalanced propeller causes destructive vibrations which could cause serious damage to welds on your chassis and to other components.
|
Before
starting the engine, always check for parts that may take off while the
engine is on